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The other Hawaii

August 31, 2009 by John L. Dengler

A hiker makes her way through the forest of Hanakapiai Valley to Hanakapiai Falls in the Na Pali Coast State Wilderness Park. The 120 foot falls are reached by way of a two mile primitive side trail off the Kalalau Trail which runs along the Na Pali coast on the northern shore of the island of Kauai in Hawaii. From the trailhead at Kee Beach in Haena State Park, the strenuous hike to Hanakapiai falls is eight miles roundtrip. (John L. Dengler)

I have always been fascinated by the natural beauty, environmental challenges and the history of the Hawaiian Islands. Because of this I’ve made close to a dozen trips to the islands including Oahu, Kauai, Molokai, Maui, Lanai, and the Big Island over the years.

Most of those visits have not been at fancy resorts but rather the backcountry of the island’s national and state parks. While most visitors to the islands camp out in fancy resort hotels, much of my time is spent camping in a tent, slogging through a rainforest bog, or camping where steam from a nearby active volcano was coming out of the ground outside my tent.

Photo Galleries

Images from Kauai

Images from the Big Island

It’s been a while since my last trip to the islands. Much of my outdoor photography in recent years has been focused on Alaska. So I decided I wanted to freshen up my offerings and revisit some of my favorite outdoor haunts in Hawaii. For this trip, the islands of Kauai and the Big Island were on my list. Places of focus on Kauai included the Na Pali Coast State Wilderness Park, Kalalau Trail, Hanakapiai Falls, Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge, Waimea Canyon State Park, Alakai Swamp Wilderness Preserve. On the Big Island the primary target was Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. The main pit crater, Halemaumau which is part the Kilauea caldera had been the scene of some volcanic activity earlier this month, but as luck would have it, it died back on my arrival.

Actually, my luck wasn’t good much of the trip. On this trip I experienced much more rain (some of it heavy) than I have in the past. I attributed it to hurricane Carlos which passed south of the islands. While Carlos was never considered a threat to the islands, I can’t help but wonder if it was a factor. My luck didn’t hold out either for the view from Kilohana overlook at the end of the Alakai Swamp Trail, but realistically I didn’t expect that it would. I’ve hiked the trail several times in the past with the same result. Despite this outcome I enjoy the otherworldly look that the fog and low, mist-laden clouds give the swamp (technically an alpine bog, not a swamp). The fact that the Alakai Wilderness Preserve is located on a plateau near Mouth Waialeale, one of the wettest spots on Earth raises the odds dramatically that you will not see the view from Kilohana.

Hawaii is a difficult place to photograph, because so much of it has been photographed, and the part that hasn’t, is difficult to access due to the tropical environment, and rugged terrain. It’s a challenge that is rewarding for those willing to work at it. While many flock to the beaches for sunset photography, I have found the early morning sunrise and light equally beautiful — and devoid of tourists. While I have to admit I get suckered into taking the setting sun photos (how can you not?), I do try to look the other direction and see how the light is dancing on other subjects.

Every time I go to Hawaii, I always make the same mistake of wanting to take too much equipment out into the field (on long day hikes or longer backpacks). And each time after the first day, I realize my mistake and adjust accordingly. The weather in Hawaii is deceptively beautiful — until you start hiking up and down the same ridge or cliff for the xth time. Hopefully, I will be able to find the notes to myself that I took on how to configure my equipment the next time.

As of now, I have some serious editing to do before posting those images. Look for new images in my Hawaii-focused galleries and archives over the upcoming months.


ABOVE: A hiker makes her way through the forest of Hanakapiai Valley to Hanakapiai Falls in the Na Pali Coast State Wilderness Park. The falls are reached by way of a side trail off the Kalalau Trail which runs along the Na Pali coast on the northern shore of the island of Kauai in Hawaii. From the trailhead at Kee Beach in Haena State Park, the strenous hike is eight miles roundtrip. Photographed using a Nikon D3 and a Nikon 20mm f2.8 lens. Image capture: 1/320 at f5.0, ISO 200

To license image, click image. To see our collection of fine art prints, click here.

Doing homework in West Virginia

June 14, 2009 by John L. Dengler

Unnamed waterfall on Dunloup Creek near the abandoned mining town of Thurmond, in the New River Gorge National River in West Virginia. (John L. Dengler)Carol and I made a scouting trip to the New River Gorge National River and the Gauley River National Recreation Area for an upcoming trip in September when I will be photographing whitewater kayakers and rafters during the annual water release from the Summersville Dam on the Gauley. My mission was to get a feel for the land, the rivers, and to conduct research with the park service for the fall trip.

I didn’t know what to expect of West Virginia and the Appalachian Mountains. While I had been to Great Smokies National Park in Tennessee and North Carolina as a child, those memories aren’t as clear, nor do they account for the fact that I now carry on assignments quite a load of photographic equipment.

Our weekend visit to West Virginia was somewhat rainy, though there were breaks in the weather that allowed me to get some practice photography time shooting kayakers and rafters on the New River. While I didn’t get in quite as much whitewater photography as I had hoped, I now have a good sense of the area, and what things I need to account for logistically when I return.

Photo Gallery

Images from New River Gorge National River

The close friends that we were staying with welcomed us into their new home allowing us to catch-up on our various lives. They also gave us a good overview tour and cultural insight of the area including trips to the Vandalia Gathering, the state’s annual celebration of the traditional arts, music, dance, stories, crafts and food, and to Tamarack, a showcase venue for West Virginia arts, crafts and food items and those who produce or perform them. Hopefully, there are some opportunities for editorial stock photography sales to illustrate West Virginia travel and culture from these two places.

The trip was much too short but I took away two key impressions: 1. That this is rugged, remote country, particularly with accessing the river and 2. That West Virginia is beautiful. I can’t wait until I return in September.


ABOVE: Unnamed waterfall on Dunloup Creek near the abandoned mining town of Thurmond, in the New River Gorge National River in West Virginia. Photographed using a Nikon D3 with a Nikon 70-200 mm f2.8 lens, mounted on a a on a Slik Pro 804 CF carbon fiber tripod with a Really Right Stuff BH-40 ballhead. Image capture: 1/13 at f20

To license image, click image. To see our collection of fine art prints, click here.

Thunderbirds spotted in Ozarks skies

May 12, 2009 by John L. Dengler

Two Lockheed Martin F-16 "Fighting Falcon" jets from the United States Air Force Demonstration Squadron-better known as the ?Thunderbirds? demonstrate the precision flying for which they are known during the air show at the new Branson Airport, in Branson, Mo. The The Branson Airport, is the first privately financed and operated commercial service airport in the United States. (John L. Dengler)

My photography career has intersected with aviation many times. For stories, I’ve been in hot air balloons, rode with helicopter traffic reporters, flown in a glider, done aerial photography from “doors-off” helicopters, flown in an open cockpit of the Red Baron Squad, flown in the Goodyear Blimp and experienced a scary incident with an electrical fire in a four-seater plane. I’ve also done stories on F-15 test pilots, and once in the early years of my career stupidly attached remote-controlled cameras to an acrobatic pilots plane (great photos, but I was sure lucky they didn’t come off). I’ve even had a helicopter pilot that I was flying with land his helicopter in a McDonald’s parking lot because he wanted lunch (I reminded him that I didn’t think they had a “fly-thru” window).

Photo Gallery

Images from Branson Air Show

Enough ancient history — so, despite the threat of rain in the afternoon, I was drawn to photographing these “birds” even if they were of the metal variety. I packed light and mobile for the event. I left the 600mm at home and instead opted to use my 70-200mm and when needed, a 1.4 teleconverter. Festival-type shooting always requires you to move easily and quickly through crowds. To this end, I carried my equipment in a couple of ThinkTank pouches attached to their Racing Harness and Steroid Belt.

Air shows are always fun, and challenging to shoot. You have a variety of different aircraft, flying at vastly different speeds. You might need the fastest shutter speed your camera offers to capture the just below speed of sound pass of a fighter jet, or a significantly slower speed to capture the ever so slight blur of a propeller (nothing worse than to “freeze” a propeller — making the plane look like it has lost power).

A U.S. Air Force A-10 Thunderbolt II makes a pass after a fiery simulated bombing run during the air show at the new Branson Airport in Branson, Mo. The pyrotechnic display was by Rich's Incredible Pyro. (John L. Dengler)Air shows also force you to anticipate and be prepared to react to any unexpected action. If you haven’t already begun tracking the plane when it is early inbound, and, figured out what it might do on the pass, and where that is likely to happen, you’re going to miss the shot. That anticipatory thinking led to my getting a photo of two of the F-16 Thunderbirds appearing to be flying in unison. Another time was when I noticed the odd shuffling of spectators by event organizers near the airport runway during the A-10 Thunderbolt II demonstration. I knew something was up but didn’t have a clue, but suspected the action was going to be on the ground and not the air. While I was surprised as everyone else. KABOOM! I was in the right position and focused in the right spot.

A U.S. Air Force A-10 Thunderbolt II makes a pass after a fiery simulated bombing run during the air show at the new Branson Airport in Branson, Mo. The pyrotechnic display was by Rich's Incredible Pyro. (John L. Dengler)

 


TOP PHOTO: Two Lockheed Martin F-16 “Fighting Falcon” jets from the United States Air Force Demonstration Squadron–better known as the “Thunderbirds” demonstrate the precision flying for which they are known during the air show at the new Branson Airport, in Branson, Mo. The The Branson Airport, is the first privately financed and operated commercial service airport in the United States. Photographed using a Nikon D3, using Nikon 70-200mm f2.8 lens with Nikon TC-14E II 1.4x teleconverter. Image capture: 1/1000 at f5.6, EV – 1.7, ISO 200.

ABOVE: A Fairchild-Republic A-10 Thunderbolt II “Warthog” jet from the United States Air Force makes a pass after a fiery simulated bombing run during the air show at the new Branson Airport in Branson, Mo. The pyrotechnic display was by Rich’s Incredible Pyro.. Photographed using a Nikon D3, using Nikon 70-200 mm f2.8 lens. Image capture: 1/1000 at f4.5, EV -1.7, ISO 200

To license image, click image. To see our collection of fine art prints, click here.

Florida wild wading bird rookery offers easy access

April 27, 2009 by John L. Dengler

A white ibis (Eudocimus albus) lands in a tree  at sunset to roost overnight at the Gatorland alligator breeding marsh and bird sanctuary near Orlando, Florida. The bird sanctuary is the largest and most easily accessible wild wading bird rookery in east central Florida. (John L. Dengler)

I recently took advantage of Allegiant Airlines cheap fares from Springfield to Orlando to work on my bird photography techniques, get some shooting hours under my belt with my new 600mm f4 lens and conduct a real world test of traveling with new equipment in anticipation of more extensive and demanding travel scheduled for later this year.

Gatorland is a tourist attraction on the southern edge of Orlando near Kissimmee. It oozes tourist kitsch all revolving around alligators. Watching alligator feeding or wrestling is definitely not my cup of tea, but what they do have is the largest and most easily accessible wild wading bird rookery in east central Florida. The rookery is on the outer edge of the park and serves as the 10 acre breeding marsh for Gatorland’s alligators. According to the Gatorland website, “Literally thousands of native Florida birds make their home in this natural habitat. Currently, a dozen different species of birds nest within Gatorland’s rookery, and over 20 different species of birds use the area for roosting or feeding. Of these, 8 species are listed either as a Species of Special Concern or Endangered by the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission’s Fish and Wildlife Conservation Act.”

Photo Gallery

Images from Florida rookery

The birds like the rookery area because the alligators under the bird nests afford protection from predators — opossums, raccoons and snakes.

There are boardwalks through the rookery area that keep the gators from munching your legs (your legs, and your tripod’s) along with several covered cabanas for protection from sun and rain and a large tower should you wish to get eye level shots of incoming birds in flight.

The best thing about the rookery is that you can buy a special photo pass to the rookery area that allows you access before the park is open to the general public and after the park is closed. This allows you to catch the best light in the early morning and early evening. While these times afforded the best light and shooting, it made for long days — staying from sunrise to sundown. During the less than optimal midday light, I practiced my bird flight photography and scouted out the area for young birds in nests. On several early mornings the alligators in the swamp would start booming in unison — somewhat eery and unnerving. This courtship behavior bellowing can be heard up to a mile away. My favorite time of the day was the early evening. The light was good, and the action hot. Hundreds upon hundreds of birds would flock to the swamp in the evening light to roost. Bottom line, I got good shooting time under my belt with my 600mm, plenty of birds-in-flight photography opportunities, and time to work on fill-flash technique when photographing birds.

Mike Godwin, the person in charge of the photographer access program (and an excellent bird photographer himself) is usually available during the special shooting hours and is helpful in answering questions or offering tips.

My traveling went off without a hitch. I was initially a little apprehensive of what traveling with the 600mm would be like but I now have my system down. I’m really liking my Kiboko Bag from Gura Gear that I use as my carryon bag. I can stuff it full of camera bodies, several lenses, a flash, assorted filters, camera batteries, flash batteries AND my 600mm (minus the lens hood). The massive lens hood ends up in a duffle bag along with my Gitzo tripod w/Wimberley Head, Kinesis large lens pack and Kinesis pack frame that disassembles completely flat. So far I haven’t had any problems fitting the Kiboko Bag onto the regional jets that often fly out of the Springfield airport. On occasion, the airline person on the jetway will want me to gate-check the bag but I assure them that the bag will fit in the overhead, and so far it always has. Other things that I like about the bag are the easily accessible backpacking straps, the ergonomically offset carrying handle and the removable rain cover.

I am now confident that I’ve got a reasonably workable system for transporting my equipment for my upcoming more extensive trips — Hawaii in July and Alaska in November.


ABOVE: A white ibis (Eudocimus albus) lands in a tree at sunset to roost overnight at the Gatorland alligator breeding marsh and bird sanctuary near Orlando, Florida. The bird sanctuary is the largest and most easily accessible wild wading bird rookery in east central Florida.

To license image, click image. To see our collection of fine art prints, click here.

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