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Haines Highway realignment —
balancing safety and the environment

May 2, 2014 by John L. Dengler

The Alaska Department of Transportation is proposing to widen and realign a 21.8-mile section of the two-lane Haines Highway (AK 7) near Haines, Alaska and bring the road up to federal highway standards. The department’s goal is to widen the highway, replace the Chilkat River Bridge, help control landslides and bring the speed limit up from 50 to 55 mph by straightening curves, like this curve at mile 17 of the highway. Much of the rural highway travels through the Alaska Chilkat Bald Eagle preserve. Some Haines residents worry about the impact the straightening will have on a 15-mile section of the road through the preserve. Bald eagle perching and roosting trees, wetlands and salmon spawning habitat and cultural sites could potentially be affected. The straightening of the curve shown is one of the curves which would require significant work including wetland mitigation and stream relocation. The Alaska Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve is the location of one of the largest gatherings of bald eagles in the world each fall. The 48,000 acre area was designated as a preserve in 1982. The Haines Highway is the only road access to Haines. The 152 mile highway travels from Haines, Alaska to Haines Junction, Yukon in Canada where it connects with the Alaska Highway and continental highway system. (© John L. Dengler/Dengler Images)

Protecting people, bald eagles and salmon at the same time isn’t as simple as it might sound.

The Alaska Department of Transportation is proposing to widen and realign a 21.8-mile section of the two-lane Haines Highway (AK 7) near Haines, Alaska and bring the road up to federal highway standards. The department’s goal is to widen the highway, replace the Chilkat River Bridge, help control landslides and bring the speed limit up from 50 to 55 mph by straightening curves, like this curve at mile 17 of the highway (ABOVE). Much of the rural highway travels through the Alaska Chilkat Bald Eagle preserve. Some Haines residents worry about the impact the straightening will have on a 15-mile section of the road through the preserve. Bald eagle perching and roosting trees, wetlands and salmon spawning habitat and cultural sites could potentially be affected. The straightening of the curve shown is one of the curves which would require significant work including wetland mitigation and stream relocation.

The Alaska Department of Transportation is proposing to widen and realign a 21.8-mile section of the two-lane Haines Highway (AK 7) near Haines, Alaska and bring the road up to federal highway standards. The department’s goal is to widen the highway, replace the Chilkat River Bridge, help control landslides and bring the speed limit up from 50 to 55 mph by straightening curves. Much of the rural highway travels through the Alaska Chilkat Bald Eagle preserve.  In this photo bald eagles perch in trees next to the Haines Highway at 20.7 mile near the parking lot pullout for the Alaska Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve. Proposed roadwork in the area shown in this photo is less extensive than in nearby areas not shown.  Some Haines residents worry about the impact the straightening will have on a 15-mile section of the road through the preserve. Bald eagle perching and roosting trees, wetlands and salmon spawning habitat and cultural sites could potentially be affected. The straightening of the curve shown is one of the curves which would require significant work including wetland mitigation and stream relocation. The Alaska Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve is the location of one of the largest gatherings of bald eagles in the world each fall. The 48,000 acre area was designated as a preserve in 1982. The Haines Highway is the only road access to Haines. The 152 mile highway travels from Haines, Alaska to Haines Junction, Yukon in Canada where it connects with the Alaska Highway and continental highway system. (© John L. Dengler/Dengler Images)

Due to 250 comments received about the project from Chilkat Valley residents, and an unfavorable review from the National Marine Fisheries Service, the environmental assessment plan for project is being revised.

The state estimates that 584 people use the highway daily. During an 80 minute period during the mid-afternoon, this photographer photographed vehicles traveling through the curve at 17 mile. Most of the approximately 42 vehicles were the only vehicles on the road at the remote curve. However, there were several instances when more than one vehicle passed each other as they went south towards Haines, or north towards the nearby Canadian border (as seen in this photo).

The Alaska Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve is the location of one of the largest gatherings of bald eagles in the world each fall. The 48,000 acre area was designated as a preserve in 1982. The Haines Highway is the only road access to Haines. The 152 mile highway travels from Haines, Alaska to Haines Junction, Yukon in Canada where it connects with the Alaska Highway and continental highway system.


RIGHT: Bald eagles perch in trees next to the Haines Highway at 20.7 mile near the parking lot pullout for the Alaska Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve. Proposed roadwork in the area shown in this photo is less extensive than in nearby areas not shown. To license an image, click image.

LINKS

  • ALASKA DEPARTMENT OF TRANSPORTATION: Haines Highway Improvements documents
  • ALASKA DISPATCH: Plan to straighten Haines Highway ruffles feathers of Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve supporters
  • LYNN CANAL CONSERVATION: Review, requests, and stance on the Haines Highway realignment proposal

Connelly Lake Hydroelectric Project

February 23, 2013 by John L. Dengler

Snow-covered Connelly Lake (far left) is a 90-acre alpine lake near Haines, Alaska that drains into the Chilkoot River (right). Connelly Lake is the focus of a proposed $32 million, 12-megawatt hydroelectric project by Alaska Power and Telephone Company (AP&T). AP&T proposes to build a dam at the outlet of Connelly Lake that would create a 160-acre reservoir and a 6,200-foot-long penstock down the side of the mountain where water would be delivered to turbine generators located in a powerhouse near the Chilkoot River into which the lake water would be discharged. Some of the main features of the proposed Connelly Lake project (for example portions of the penstock, the powerhouse, access roads, and the transmission line) would be located in the Alaska Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve and the Haines State Forest. Environmental concerns include the impact construction and project operation would have on fish spawning and rearing habitat (water turbidity issues), and bald eagles. The eagles rely on the salmon that use the Chilkoot Valley in the fall and early winter when they are attracted to late spawning salmon runs. The Connelly Lake Hydro Aquatic Studies Report for 2012 prepared by the Shipley Group states that according to the Alaska Department of Fish and Game, 41 percent of the sockeye salmon in the upper Lynn Canal come from the Chilkoot River with 25 percent of those salmon spawning in the Chilkoot River drainage above Chilkoot Lake. The value of the fishery is estimated at more than $1,000,000 annually. AP&T wants to build the project to replace the undersea cable that supplies Haines with electricity from Skagway. AP&T announced in June 2013 that it was putting the project on hold citing difficulty securing funding from the Alaska Energy Authority and the lack of community support. Despite these setbacks AP&T says that it not abandoning pursuing the project. The large lake in the background is Chilkoot Lake. Beyond Chilkoot Lake is Lutak Inlet of the Lynn Canal. (John L. Dengler)

I visit Haines, Alaska several times a year as part of my ongoing project photographing and filming the bald eagles that congregate in the nearby Chilkoot and Chilkat River Valleys each fall. I look forward to my visits for the friendly people and the natural beauty of the area — arguably some of the best any town in Alaska has to offer.

Haines is a a small town (population 2,554) nestled in between the majestic Takhinsha and Takshanuk Mountains and the bountiful salmon-rich ocean waters of the Lynn Canal. Much of the Haines Borough boundary is the mountains that separate it from Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve with its incredible glaciers, and its summer visitors — humpback whales. Abutting Glacier Bay National Park and up the highway from Haines are three more National or Provincial Parks (Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, Kluane National Park (Canada) and Tatshenshini-Alsek Park (Canada). Together they form the one of the largest internationally protected areas on the planet. While challenging to access, that is still quite a backyard to have.

Photo Gallery

Aerial images of Connelly Lake, Chilkoot River corridor

The upper Lynn Canal area of Haines is not just rich in beauty and wildlife but is also rich in resources — rich in minerals and rich in fisheries. Chilkoot River salmon are harvested by commercial fishermen, by sports fishermen, and for subsistence. Salmon play an important role in the area’s economy and lifestyle. The Connelly Lake Hydro Aquatic Studies Report for 2012 prepared by the Shipley Group for Alaska Power and Telephone Company (AP&T) states that according to the Alaska Department of Fish and Game, 41 percent of the sockeye salmon in the upper Lynn Canal come from the Chilkoot River with 25 percent of those salmon spawning in the Chilkoot River drainage above Chilkoot Lake. The value of the fishery is estimated at more than $1,000,000 annually.

So when AP&T, the power company that serves Haines, announced a proposal for a hydroelectric project using a high alpine lake above one of the area’s important salmon spawning rivers, I couldn’t help but wonder how this delicate balance of resources would play out with locals. This curiosity led me to fly above the lake to see for myself.

Connelly Lake (formerly known as Upper Chilkoot Lake) is the focus of a proposed $32 million, 12-megawatt hydroelectric project by AP&T. The power company proposes to build a dam at the outlet of the 90-acre alpine lake that would create a 160-acre reservoir and a 6,200-foot-long penstock down the side of the mountain where water would be delivered to two turbine generators located in a powerhouse near the Chilkoot River into which the lake water would be discharged. Some of the main features of the proposed Connelly Lake project (for example portions of the penstock, the powerhouse, access roads, and the transmission line) would be located in the Alaska Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve and the Haines State Forest.

Environmental concerns include the impact construction and project operation would have on fish spawning and rearing habitat (water turbidity issues), and bald eagles. Bears and bald eagles rely on the salmon that use the Chilkoot Valley in the fall and early winter when they are attracted to late spawning salmon runs. AP&T wants to build the project to replace an undersea cable that currently supplies Haines with hydro-powered electricity from Skagway. If the cable would ever become unusable, then Haines would need to depend on diesel-generated electricity produced in Haines.

While most Haines residents see clean hydropower as a viable and economical solution to the community’s growing power needs, some feel that it might come at too high a price if the salmon spawning waters of the Chilkoot River are put at risk or even worse, damaged. Others see it as vital if Haines wants to grow. The Connelly Lake hydropower project is still in it’s early stages. How it will play out is unclear.

If you are interested in learning more about the project, the Federal Energy Regulatory Commission posts documents pertaining to the project online. As an example, the Second Six Month Progress Report” from Alaska Power & Telephone Company (26MB download) has quite a bit of research study information regarding the salmon and other fish that inhabit the Chilkoot River. You can find other documents like this by searching the FERC Online eLibrary using the “Full Text Search” feature. Search for “Connelly Lake.”

UPDATE: AP&T announced during the summer of 2013 that it was putting the project on hold citing difficulty securing funding from the Alaska Energy Authority and the lack of community support for the project. Despite these setbacks AP&T says that it not abandoning pursuing the project. In early September 2013, the Haines Borough announced that it was exploring possibly filing for a preliminary permit now that the project was no longer being pursued by AP&T.

Connelly Lake (center) is a 90-acre alpine lake near Haines, Alaska that drains into the Chilkoot River. Connelly Lake is the focus of a proposed $32 million, 12-megawatt hydroelectric project by Alaska Power and Telephone Company (AP&T). AP&T proposes to build a dam at the outlet of Connelly Lake that would create a 160-acre reservoir and a 6,200-foot-long penstock down the side of the mountain where water would be delivered to two turbine generators located in a powerhouse near the Chilkoot River into which the lake water would be discharged. Some of the main features of the proposed Connelly Lake project (for example portions of the penstock, the powerhouse, access roads, and the transmission line) would be located in the Alaska Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve and the Haines State Forest. Environmental concerns include the impact construction and project operation would have on fish spawning and rearing habitat (water turbidity issues), and bald eagles. The eagles rely on the salmon that use the Chilkoot Valley in the fall and early winter when they are attracted to late spawning salmon runs. The Connelly Lake Hydro Aquatic Studies Report for 2012 prepared by the Shipley Group for AP&T states that according to the Alaska Department of Fish and Game, 41 percent of the sockeye salmon in the upper Lynn Canal come from the Chilkoot River with 25 percent of those salmon spawning in the Chilkoot River drainage above Chilkoot Lake. The value of the fishery is estimated at more than $1,000,000 annually. AP&T wants to build the project to replace the undersea cable that supplies Haines with electricity from Skagway.  AP&T announced during the summer of 2013 that it was putting the project on hold citing difficulty securing funding from the Alaska Energy Authority and the lack of community support for the project. Despite these setbacks AP&T says that it not abandoning pursuing the project. This photo of the ice and snow covered Connelly Lake was taken in mid-July. (John L. Dengler)


TOP: This photo of the ice and snow covered Connelly Lake (left) was taken in mid-July. Alaska Power and Telephone Company is proposing to dam Connelly Lake and build a powerhouse below the lake near the Chilkoot River (right) in the Alaska Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve. The Chilkoot River is an important salmon spawning stream supporting bald eagles and bears. The large lake in the background is Chilkoot Lake. Beyond Chilkoot Lake is Lutak Inlet of the Lynn Canal.

ABOVE: The outlet stream of Connelly Lake, Connelly Creek (center), descends 2,138 feet to the floor of the Chilkoot Valley where it joins the Chilkoot River. A 6,200-foot-long penstock would be built down the side of the mountain where water would be delivered to two turbine generators located in a powerhouse near the Chilkoot River into which the lake water would be discharged. Some of the main features of the proposed Connelly Lake hydroelectric project would be located in the Alaska Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve and the Haines State Forest.

To license image, click image. To see our collection of fine art prints, click here.

A look back: Rocky start to the Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve in the Flint Hills

July 7, 2012 by John L. Dengler

This 1997 photograph of a sign just outside Cottonwood Falls on Kansas Highway 177 is an example of the controversy that surrounded the formation of the nearby Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve.  Initially, the Flint Hills communities surrounding the proposed park were supportive, but then opposition developed. According to National Park Service document "Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve Legislative History, 1920-1996" most local business owners were supportive but many ranchers had overall concerns about federal involvement and federal land ownership with some ranchers specifically concerned about land being lost by eminent domain. The park proposal became a divisive and heated issue between the two community groups. In the end, an unique compromise was reached with a public/private partnership between the National Park Service and The Nature Conservancy. Today, the 10,894-acre Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve is the only unit of the National Park Service dedicated to the preservation of the tallgrass prairie ecosystem. According to a National Park Service press release, 22,047 visitors in 2010 fueled $1,048,000 in spending at the Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve and in communities near the park. “Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve is clean, green fuel for the engine that drives our local economy,” said Park superintendent Wendy Lauritzen. (John L. Dengler)

The upcoming official opening of the new visitor center at the Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve reminds me of the first time I visited the preserve. I still recall back to 1997 driving to a new national park in the Kansas Flint Hills called the Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve, wondering what the heck it was and what I would find there. As I approached the nearby sleepy town of Cottonwood Falls I was greeted by this sign voicing opposition to the formation of the preserve. I didn’t have a clue what the controversy was about when I first saw it. A new national park seemed like a good idea to me. While I didn’t know it at the time, less than four percent of the original 140 million acres of tallgrass prairie remains in North America. Most of that remaining tallgrass prairie is in the Flint Hills in Kansas.

Photo Gallery

Images from the tallgrass prairie

Initially, the Flint Hills communities surrounding the proposed park were supportive, but then opposition developed. According to National Park Service document “Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve Legislative History, 1920-1996” most local business owners were supportive but many ranchers had overall concerns about federal involvement and federal land ownership with some ranchers specifically concerned about land being lost by eminent domain. The park proposal became a divisive and heated issue between the two community groups.

In the end, an unique compromise was reached with a public/private partnership between the National Park Service and The Nature Conservancy. Today, the 10,894-acre Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve is the only unit of the National Park Service dedicated to the preservation of the tallgrass prairie ecosystem.

A lot has changed since 1997 when I photographed that sign. Now Flint Hills ranchers work with The Nature Conservancy to implement pro-conservation policies like patch burning to protect prairie chickens and other native species. Ranchers have developed agritourism opportunities for tourists to visit their ranches. Local restaurants, lodging and retail establishments have obviously benefited with the increased numbers of tourists.

According to a National Park Service press release, 22,047 visitors in 2010 fueled $1,048,000 in spending at the Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve and in communities near the park. “Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve is clean, green fuel for the engine that drives our local economy,” said Park superintendent Wendy Lauritzen.

For me, driving past that sign was the start of a life long fascination and love for the tallgrass prairie and the Flint Hills. It was also a new start for the communities near the park.


ABOVE: This 1997 photograph of a sign just outside Cottonwood Falls on Kansas Highway 177 is an example of the controversy that surrounded the formation of the nearby Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve. Initially, the Flint Hills communities surrounding the proposed park were supportive, but then opposition developed. According to National Park Service document "Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve Legislative History, 1920-1996" most local business owners were supportive but many ranchers had overall concerns about federal involvement and federal land ownership with some ranchers specifically concerned about land being lost by eminent domain.

To license image, click image. To see our collection of fine art prints, click here.

Fire – the life blood of the Flint Hills tallgrass prairie

September 3, 2011 by John L. Dengler

Unidentified participants at the

What have I gotten myself into? I’m laying down flat on my back in my tent, not because I’m sleeping but because the tent is literally being flattened nearly to my face by the fierce wind as it blasts incessantly across the tallgrass prairie in the Flint Hills of Kansas. I’ve been in high wind situations before, particularly in Alaska, but this time the wind felt different. It was enveloping, feeling like it was a living, breathing being. It was eerie being all alone with this wind creature as it howled through the night.

Photo Gallery

Images of prescribed burning of tallgrass prairie

I was in the Flint Hills to photograph the springtime burning of the prairie. Specifically, I was camped at the Flying W Ranch in Chase County Kansas at what was described as the center of action for the Flying W’s “Flames in the Flint Hills,” an agritourism event. Visitors to the ranch can participate in the prescribed burning of the prairie. That event was 24 hours away, and given the wind and heavy rain; I was having doubts about it actually taking place as I slowly fell asleep.

———

Cattle ranchers and land managers intentionally burn the prairie to mimic the natural wildfires caused by lightning strikes as a way to improve cattle forage. While the burning might appear on the surface to be destructive, fires cause the tallgrass prairie to regenerate itself. It serves as a way to manage vegetation, in particular weeds, woody vegetation, and invasive species while promoting new growth in the process. I was told that without this burning, the prairie would eventually end up looking like the forested hills of the Ozarks. That hasn’t happened in the Flint Hills. The soil in the Flint Hills is incredibly rocky and is the reason the land has never been turned into farmland for crops. That said, less than four percent of the original 140 million acres of tallgrass prairie remains in North America making it one of the most endangered ecosystems on the planet. Most of the remaining tallgrass prairie is in the Flint Hills in Kansas.

The prairie grassland is burned when the soil is moist but grasses are dry. This allows the deep roots of the grasses to survive and the burned grasses on the soil surface return as nutrients to the soil. These nutrients allow for the rapid growth of new grass. After approximately two weeks of burning, new grass emerges. The new grass is prized by cattle ranchers and their cattle; so rich in nutrients a steer can gain almost two pounds a day.

The controlled burning, or as some like to say prescribed burning, since any wildfire can’t be totally “controlled,” isn’t without controversy. Burning huge tracks of land creates huge plumes of smoke — smoke that can cause air quality problems in counties, and even states away. In particular, it is problematic for large cities like Kansas City and Wichita as the smoke adds to their already polluted air.

Another issue is that recent studies have shown that the intentional burning combined with widespread grazing has caused the populations of grassland birds to decrease substantially. Burning every spring eliminates the tallgrass that hides the nests of grassland birds, like the dickcissel, from egg-eating predators like raccoons.

For both issues, land managers are working with national and state government agencies to lessen the impact of burning. In the case of pollution, land mangers are burning pasture lands primarily in the spring, postponing other non-essential burning to other times of the year. To deal with the impact on wildlife, land managers and cattle ranchers are beginning to “patch burn” where one-third of their land is burned every year completing the cycle of burning all their land every three years. So far, the results appear to be promising.

The whole issue is a catch-22. If the prairie doesn’t burn (whether intentionally or naturally) the entire tallgrass prairie ecosystem will cease to exist.  The challenge appears to be getting the right balance in the frequency of burning.

———

Morning greeted me with clear blue skies and bright sunshine. Having oversleep and missed sunrise by only minutes, I quickly made my way out into the dusty unmarked back roads of Chase County. The blackened earth and the smell of smoke make obvious the recent burn. It was also obvious that the prairie was rejuvenating itself and new grass shoots were popping up from the scorched earth. The prairie has been reborn.

The wind and the sun quickly dried off the grass and the planned burn at the Flying W Ranch went off as planned. Eager participants formed long lines across the prairie to light the grass with matches, once during the day, and once in the evening.

In both cases, the fire quickly started, and would race down the hillsides eventually dying out. The evening burn with its red line of flames signifying the leading edge of the fire reminded me of scenes of flowing lava from the Kilauea volcano on the Big Island of Hawaii. To ensure that the fire stayed contained in the areas designated for burning, strips of grass were pre-burned and extinguished so the fire would stop upon reaching these areas that no longer had combustible material.

That was comforting to know as I lay in my tent tucked in my sleeping bag, looking out on the hillside next to me as the fire continued to crackle and burn.


ABOVE: Unidentified participants at the “Flames in the Flint Hills” observe the burning prairie at the Flying W Ranch near Clements, Kansas. This agritourism event allows ranch guests to take part in lighting the prescribed burns. Prairie grasses in the Kansas Flint Hills are intentionally burned by land mangers and cattle ranchers in the spring to prepare the land for cattle grazing and help maintain a healthy tallgrass prairie ecosystem. The burning is also an effective way of controlling invasive plants and trees. The prairie grassland is burned when the soil is moist but grasses are dry. This allows the deep roots of the grasses to survive and the burned grasses on the soil surface return as nutrients to the soil. These nutrients allow for the rapid growth of new grass. After approximately two weeks of burning, new grass emerges. Less than four percent of the original 140 million acres of tallgrass prairie remains in North America. Most of the remaining tallgrass prairie is in the Flint Hills in Kansas.

To license image, click image. To see our collection of fine art prints, click here.

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