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Seeing the Flint Hills tallgrass prairie in a different light

September 14, 2011 by John L. Dengler

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I knew I wasn’t in Missouri anymore when I looked down at the feet of the two other men I was in line with me at the Pizza Hut in Council Grove, Kansas. Sure, all three of us had boots on. I had on what I thought until that moment were pretty manly backpacking boots. The other two gentlemen had me beat; dangling off their cowboy boots were spurs. Welcome to the world of real cowboys and cattle ranchers of the Flint Hills tallgrass prairie.

Photo Gallery

Images from the tallgrass prairie

I returned to the Flint Hills region in June to see how the tallgrass prairie was regenerating itself. What was two months ago blackened scorched earth was now an ocean of prairie grasses swaying in the steady wind. Describing the prairie as ocean-like is probably an overused metaphor, but it is accurate. The never ending waves of blowing grass, reminds me of the ocean when sea kayaking in Alaska and Hawaii – an ocean that is always moving, never ending, as far as the eye can see.

The timing of my trip in early June was picked for what I believed would be maximum wildflower opportunities and to beat the hot weather of summer. Unfortunately, I was only right on one those points. On the day I arrived in the Flint Hills it was 104 degrees F. and would stay above 100 for most of the week I was there. It was a cooker. To keep expenses down I car camped at Council Grove Lake, a U.S. Army Corps of Engineers reservoir on the Neosho River. Camping at the Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve is prohibited, though the preserve is open 24 hours (which, as you shall see, was important).

After only a quarter of a mile of hiking the next morning at the preserve that it was painfully clear that I was going to have to re-think my plans. The heat was just unbearable. Plans for carrying extra equipment to do HD video – scrapped. It’s enough that I carry 30-35 pounds worth of still camera equipment; there was no way I could carry more in the oppressive heat. Oh, and for those who haven’t ridden in my 1991 Honda Civic — I haven’t had working car air conditioning for 15 years.

When faced with an obstacle, I look for an opportunity. In this case, I decided if it was too hot during the day to shoot, how about shooting at night. That got me thinking about all kinds of possibilities — sunsets, twilight, and eventually star-filled skies. My days quickly became a split shift. I’d be up a little before sunrise to mine sunrise opportunities along the The Flint Hills National Scenic Byway (K-177). Head back for a nap and a swim at the lake, hike out on the prairie for several miles around sundown, then returning well after sunset. For part of the trip the moon didn’t set until after 2 a.m. This meant getting up again, every so quietly unlatching the giant squeaky swing gate of the now closed and sound asleep campground and driving the 25 miles or so to the Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve for shooting the Lower Fox Creek School under the stars.

Some nights afforded views of the stars, others not. There is relatively little light pollution from nearby cities (the only light coming from Emporia 25 miles away), making it possible to see deep into space and peer at the Milky Way. I found the starlight attempts tricky. The main trick is to get your exposure long enough to record as many of the starts without getting the movement. It’s a delicate balance between adjusting your shutter time and the ISO with your lens wide open.

The nights on the prairie were thankfully cool. On one late night/early morning, I swear every coyote in Chase County, must have been howling. What a hair-raising treat! I could just picture the coyotes and other nighttime critters wondering what this crazy person was doing out so late at night.

This was my routine for several days. Towards the end of my trip, the temperature forecast looked like it was going to be more reasonable so I decided to hike the relatively new Bottomland Trail and Fox Creek Trail (approximately 7 miles round trip) that traverses the lowland prairie along Fox Creek. One of my goals for the hike was to climb a high hill that would afford (or at least what I had hoped) a view of the historic Spring Creek mansion and it’s massive barn with a vista of the prairie in the background. Unfortunately, trees obscured most of the home, meaning I’ll need to attempt the shot in the early spring before the trees surrounding the home are leafed out.

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This wasn’t the only reason for hiking these trails. The area along Fox Creek encompasses rare lowland prairie — rare because most lowland prairies have been lost to farming. The National Park Service is in the process of restoring this lowland from crops and cool season grasses planted by farmers as hay to true (warm season) prairie grasses. The restoration will be a process could take decades — a process that will involve invasive plant removal, burning, and reseeding.

I look forward to the day when it’s fully restored. It’s hard to believe that less than four percent of the original 140 million acres of tallgrass prairie remains in North America. Most of the remaining tallgrass prairie is in the Flint Hills in Kansas.


ABOVE: Slideshows above require Adobe Flash.

To license image, click image. To see our collection of fine art prints, click here.

Bridge to nowhere – Clements Stone Arch Bridge

September 14, 2011 by John L. Dengler

The abandoned Clements Stone Arch Bridge over the Cottonwood River is located in the Kansas Flint Hills approximately 1/2 mile south of Clements, south of highway US 50 near the Flying W Ranch in Chase County. The bridge with its massive 28 foot double arches is the largest and one of the oldest limestone bridges in Kansas. Built in 1886 though not completed until 1888, the bridge was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1976. Today, the bridge no longer carries traffic and seems out of place now that the road over the bridge ends up into a pasture. (John L. Dengler)

Photo Gallery

Images of the Clements Stone Arch Bridge

During my fire chasing of springtime burning of the tallgrass prairie in the Flint Hills of Kansas, I came across a true bridge to nowhere. Near the ghost-town-like town of Clements lies the Clements Stone Arch Bridge, the largest and among the oldest limestone bridges in the state. It is a truly impressive structure with each of it double arches spanning across the Cottonwood River.

Construction, using locally quarried limestone was completed in 1888. In 1976, the bridge was placed on the National Register of Historic Places.

The bridge once served as a vital link for cattle ranchers and farmers to get their goods to market. Today, the bridge unceremoniously stands hidden in the trees with the bridge roadbed ending immediately in a farmer’s field.

While the bridge has been replaced with a modern bridge, the Clements stone arch bridge is a reminder of the rich history of the Flint Hills region. Other nearby places of historic interest include the Spring Hill Farm and Stock Ranch, the Lower Fox Creek School (both located within the Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve), and the Chase County Courthouse. Those locations are either on or just off the Flint Hills National Scenic Byway (K-177) near the towns of Strong City and Cottonwood Falls.


ABOVE: The abandoned Clements Stone Arch Bridge over the Cottonwood River is located in the Kansas Flint Hills approximately 1/2 mile south of Clements, south of highway US 50 near the Flying W Ranch in Chase County. The bridge with its massive 28 foot double arches is the largest and one of the oldest limestone bridges in Kansas.

To license image, click image. To see our collection of fine art prints, click here.

Fire – the life blood of the Flint Hills tallgrass prairie

September 3, 2011 by John L. Dengler

Unidentified participants at the

What have I gotten myself into? I’m laying down flat on my back in my tent, not because I’m sleeping but because the tent is literally being flattened nearly to my face by the fierce wind as it blasts incessantly across the tallgrass prairie in the Flint Hills of Kansas. I’ve been in high wind situations before, particularly in Alaska, but this time the wind felt different. It was enveloping, feeling like it was a living, breathing being. It was eerie being all alone with this wind creature as it howled through the night.

Photo Gallery

Images of prescribed burning of tallgrass prairie

I was in the Flint Hills to photograph the springtime burning of the prairie. Specifically, I was camped at the Flying W Ranch in Chase County Kansas at what was described as the center of action for the Flying W’s “Flames in the Flint Hills,” an agritourism event. Visitors to the ranch can participate in the prescribed burning of the prairie. That event was 24 hours away, and given the wind and heavy rain; I was having doubts about it actually taking place as I slowly fell asleep.

———

Cattle ranchers and land managers intentionally burn the prairie to mimic the natural wildfires caused by lightning strikes as a way to improve cattle forage. While the burning might appear on the surface to be destructive, fires cause the tallgrass prairie to regenerate itself. It serves as a way to manage vegetation, in particular weeds, woody vegetation, and invasive species while promoting new growth in the process. I was told that without this burning, the prairie would eventually end up looking like the forested hills of the Ozarks. That hasn’t happened in the Flint Hills. The soil in the Flint Hills is incredibly rocky and is the reason the land has never been turned into farmland for crops. That said, less than four percent of the original 140 million acres of tallgrass prairie remains in North America making it one of the most endangered ecosystems on the planet. Most of the remaining tallgrass prairie is in the Flint Hills in Kansas.

The prairie grassland is burned when the soil is moist but grasses are dry. This allows the deep roots of the grasses to survive and the burned grasses on the soil surface return as nutrients to the soil. These nutrients allow for the rapid growth of new grass. After approximately two weeks of burning, new grass emerges. The new grass is prized by cattle ranchers and their cattle; so rich in nutrients a steer can gain almost two pounds a day.

The controlled burning, or as some like to say prescribed burning, since any wildfire can’t be totally “controlled,” isn’t without controversy. Burning huge tracks of land creates huge plumes of smoke — smoke that can cause air quality problems in counties, and even states away. In particular, it is problematic for large cities like Kansas City and Wichita as the smoke adds to their already polluted air.

Another issue is that recent studies have shown that the intentional burning combined with widespread grazing has caused the populations of grassland birds to decrease substantially. Burning every spring eliminates the tallgrass that hides the nests of grassland birds, like the dickcissel, from egg-eating predators like raccoons.

For both issues, land managers are working with national and state government agencies to lessen the impact of burning. In the case of pollution, land mangers are burning pasture lands primarily in the spring, postponing other non-essential burning to other times of the year. To deal with the impact on wildlife, land managers and cattle ranchers are beginning to “patch burn” where one-third of their land is burned every year completing the cycle of burning all their land every three years. So far, the results appear to be promising.

The whole issue is a catch-22. If the prairie doesn’t burn (whether intentionally or naturally) the entire tallgrass prairie ecosystem will cease to exist.  The challenge appears to be getting the right balance in the frequency of burning.

———

Morning greeted me with clear blue skies and bright sunshine. Having oversleep and missed sunrise by only minutes, I quickly made my way out into the dusty unmarked back roads of Chase County. The blackened earth and the smell of smoke make obvious the recent burn. It was also obvious that the prairie was rejuvenating itself and new grass shoots were popping up from the scorched earth. The prairie has been reborn.

The wind and the sun quickly dried off the grass and the planned burn at the Flying W Ranch went off as planned. Eager participants formed long lines across the prairie to light the grass with matches, once during the day, and once in the evening.

In both cases, the fire quickly started, and would race down the hillsides eventually dying out. The evening burn with its red line of flames signifying the leading edge of the fire reminded me of scenes of flowing lava from the Kilauea volcano on the Big Island of Hawaii. To ensure that the fire stayed contained in the areas designated for burning, strips of grass were pre-burned and extinguished so the fire would stop upon reaching these areas that no longer had combustible material.

That was comforting to know as I lay in my tent tucked in my sleeping bag, looking out on the hillside next to me as the fire continued to crackle and burn.


ABOVE: Unidentified participants at the “Flames in the Flint Hills” observe the burning prairie at the Flying W Ranch near Clements, Kansas. This agritourism event allows ranch guests to take part in lighting the prescribed burns. Prairie grasses in the Kansas Flint Hills are intentionally burned by land mangers and cattle ranchers in the spring to prepare the land for cattle grazing and help maintain a healthy tallgrass prairie ecosystem. The burning is also an effective way of controlling invasive plants and trees. The prairie grassland is burned when the soil is moist but grasses are dry. This allows the deep roots of the grasses to survive and the burned grasses on the soil surface return as nutrients to the soil. These nutrients allow for the rapid growth of new grass. After approximately two weeks of burning, new grass emerges. Less than four percent of the original 140 million acres of tallgrass prairie remains in North America. Most of the remaining tallgrass prairie is in the Flint Hills in Kansas.

To license image, click image. To see our collection of fine art prints, click here.

Wide-open spaces of the Flint Hills tallgrass prairie

June 27, 2010 by John L. Dengler

Evening sunset light bathes showy evening primrose and the rolling hills of the 10,894-acre Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve in the Flint Hills of Kansas in Chase County near the towns of Strong City and Cottonwood Falls. Less than four percent of the original 140 million acres of tallgrass prairie remains in North America. Most of the remaining tallgrass prairie is in the Flint Hills in Kansas. Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve is the only unit of the National Park Service dedicated to the preservation of the tallgrass prairie ecosystem. The Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve is co-managed with The Nature Conservancy. (John L. Dengler)

The tallgrass prairies of the American midwest are one of America’s classic landscapes — big skies and panoramas of never-ending seas of wave-like grass. Tallgrass prairies are also one of America’s endangered ecosystems. Before being plowed under for agriculture, tallgrass prairie once covered more than 140 million acres of the United States. Less than four percent of tallgrass prairie remains, most of it in the Flint Hills region of Kansas.

One of the places in the Flint Hills where the prairie is being protected is at the Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve — an innovative public/private partnership with the National Park Service (primary land manager) and The Nature Conservancy (primary land owner). The preserve’s mission is to protect the natural and cultural history of the tallgrass prairie ecosystem — one of the most complicated and diverse ecosystems in the world.

Photo Gallery

Images from the tallgrass prairie

The Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve is located within close proximity of the Kansas towns of Strong City, Cottonwood Falls, Council Grove, and Emporia and is located on the Flint Hills Scenic Byway – Kansas State Highway 177.

More than 500 species of plants, nearly 150 species of birds, 39 species of reptiles and amphibians and 31 species of mammals make their home in the preserve. In October of 2009, 13 genetically pure bison from Wind Cave National Park in South Dakota were introduced to the preserve. On Mother’s Day 2010 a calf was born and became the first bison born on the property since at least the mid-1800s when the property was fenced for cattle ranching. The preserve plans to add more bison form Wind Cave with a final herd size between 75 and 100 bison. America’s bison once numbered 60 million but were by the end of the 19th century, little more than 1,000 survived. Today the total number of bison in North America is 450,000 including those raised for food.

Most of the remaining tallgrass prairie is located in the Flint Hills because 200-300 million years ago the land was once a shallow sea whose sea floor that eventually turned into limestone and chert (also known as flint). This rock-laden layer of shallow soil was not suitable for plowing. Instead, the land was used and continues to be used to cattle ranching. I found particularly interesting that the cattle in the Flint Hills are referred to as “tourists.” Most of the cattle are shipped to the Flint Hills in the Spring to feast on the prairie grasses for the summer where they can gain up to two pounds a day.

Given that my visit was during the heat and humidity of summer, shooting during sunrise and sunset was as much for practical as photographic reasons — make sure you take plenty of water.

You also want to make sure you give bison, plenty of room as they are unpredictable and can be dangerous. They appear to be peaceful, but their demeanor can change instantly. Bison may look like they would be slow, but in reality they can reach speeds of up to 35 miles per hour and have great agility. In earlier times, bison were feared equally as much as a grizzly bears due to their ability to kill or inflict injury. For my visit I gave them plenty of room, shooting primarily with my 600mm lens.

I was lucky enough to find the herd easily on the vast open space of the preserve. It was even luckier that I was able to photograph the previously mentioned bison calf who was easily identified by it’s temporary light-colored fur. The older bison were shedding their much darker chocolate-colored fur. This shed fur is used by birds for nest building.

The Flint Hill prairies along with the Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve seem to have been good for the local economy. I first visited the area in the mid-1990s. Back then the Chase County towns of Strong City and Cottonwood Falls seemed pretty sleepy. Today, I sensed a resurgence in these communities. For part of the visit, the five-unit Millstream Resort Motel in Cottonwood Falls served as base (no camping at the Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve). It was a charming and restful place. Part of the reason that I only stayed there for part of the visit was, because unbeknownst to me, the Kansas City Symphony was performing out on the prairie nearby and rooms were unavailable for much of my stay. “The Symphony in the Flint Hills” sounds like a pretty incredible experience. Every year a different ranch serves as the host for the one-night event. In 2010 Lyle Lovett performed with the symphony to a crowd of approximately 6,000 who hiked in to the prairie performance site — in a county whose population is only 3,000.

The Flint Hills region is beautiful. I often tell people that in my mind it’s comparable with Alaska. I always get the strangest looks when I describe it that way, but when it comes to big sky panoramas they are much the same. I am looking forward to documenting the prairies of the Flint Hills in the years to come.


ABOVE: Evening sunset light bathes showy evening primrose and the rolling hills of the 10,894-acre Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve in the Flint Hills of Kansas in Chase County near the towns of Strong City and Cottonwood Falls. Less than four percent of the original 140 million acres of tallgrass prairie remains in North America. Most of the remaining tallgrass prairie is in the Flint Hills in Kansas. Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve is the only unit of the National Park Service dedicated to the preservation of the tallgrass prairie ecosystem. The Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve is co-managed with The Nature Conservancy.

To license image, click image. To see our collection of fine art prints, click here.

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