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Collecting DNA samples from grizzly bear saliva, SAY WHAT?

February 20, 2015 by John L. Dengler

Sometimes I get pretty odd looks from friends and family when I tell them the places I’m traveling to, or the things I’m going to photograph. The following fits into that category. Roughly, this is how my phone call from Alaska to Carol back home in Missouri went.

ME: (excited) “Remember Rachel Wheat, the ecologist PhD. candidate from the University of California Santa Cruz who I photographed trapping bald eagles to study movement patterns based on salmon availability?”

CAROL: “Sure, I remember her project and the photos you took. Really interesting work, catching the eagles and then tracking where they went with the GPS transmitters.”

ME: “Well, I just found out that as part of her dissertation, she is also collecting DNA from grizzly bears by sampling their saliva.”

CAROL: (a moment of silence, then) “Say what!?”

ME: (still excited) Yeah, it’s really cool. She’s going to let me document her as she goes about sampling. She samples the saliva left on salmon carcasses that bears have fed on. The technique is pretty much like they do on TV crime shows using cotton swabs. I’ve already been working on a different project on the same creek where she’ll be working. There are carcasses everywhere! The place must be a hornet’s nest of bears based on the fish remains I’ve seen.

CAROL: “Ah, (hesitantly) You be careful. All the dead fish sounds stinky.”

And so I was off once again to document Wheat and her work.

The search for bear drool

My interest in the work of scientists goes back to my time as a photojournalist at the St. Louis Globe-Democrat. Among my favorite assignments were feature stories on research being conducted by biologists, botanists, ecologists, geologists, foresters and conservationists. These assignments invariably led to learning about interesting work in interesting places.

Photo Gallery

Capturing bald eagles for research on the Chilkat River, Alaska

This has been the case with my documenting Wheat’s work near Haines, Alaska the past two years. As mentioned earlier, I have already photographed Wheat working on one of the cornerstones of her dissertation project, the capturing and tracking bald eagles from the Chilkat River. This past summer she finished the field work for the other two parts of her project. The bear DNA collection is part of her dissertation which looks at how the availability of salmon affects eagle movement, bear activity, and subsistence fishermen.

Finding salmon carcasses was relatively easy for Wheat. It was the middle of September during the fall chum salmon run. Once the salmon spawn, they die. They make for easy pickings for the wildlife that feeds on them.

Rachel Wheat, a graduate student at the University of California Santa Cruz, searches for salmon carcasses on the banks of the man-made spawning channel of Herman Creek, near Haines, Alaska. Wheat is collecting DNA samples of bears from bear saliva left on salmon carcasses as part of research for her doctoral dissertation. She hopes to determine if partially-consumed salmon carcasses can serve as a viable source for bear DNA to genotype individuals. She also looking to determine a minimum population estimate for the number of bears using the Chilkoot Valley and the ratio of males to females, particularly in light of increase human presence. The bear DNA collection is part of her dissertation which looks at how the availability of salmon affects eagle movement, bear activity, and subsistence fishermen. EDITORS NOTE: Images of Wheat capturing bald eagles for the bald eagle portion of her study are available here: http://denglerimages.photoshelter.com/gallery/Bald-eagle-research-Chilkat-River-eagle-migration-study/G0000GTyPvah7eiQ/ During late fall, bald eagles congregate along the Chilkat River to feed on salmon. This gathering of bald eagles in the Alaska Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve is believed to be one of the largest gatherings of bald eagles in the world. (© John L. Dengler/Dengler Images)

A chum salmon (Oncorhynchus keta) powers its way up the special spawning channel of Herman Creek to spawn during the fall chum salmon run. The nonprofit Northern Southeast Regional Aquaculture Association, Inc. (NSRAA) built the channel to collect wild broodstock by harvesting spawning female and male salmon for their eggs and milt. The chum salmon is returning to freshwater Herman Creek near Haines, Alaska after three to five years in the saltwater ocean. Spawning only once, chum salmon die approximately two weeks after they spawn. Both sexes of adult chum salmon change colors and appearance upon returning to freshwater. Unlike male sockeye salmon which turn bright red for spawning, male chum salmon change color to an olive green with purple and green vertical stripes. These vertical stripes are not as noticeable in females, who also have a dark horizontal band. Both male and female chum salmon develop hooked snout (type) and large canine teeth. These features in female salmon are less pronounced. Herman Creek is a tributary of the Klehini River and is only 10 miles downstream of the area currently being explored as a potential site of a copper and zinc mine. The exploration is being conducted by Constantine Metal Resources Ltd. of Vancouver, British Columbia along with investment partner Dowa Metals & Mining Co., Ltd. of Japan. Some local residents and environmental groups are concerned that a mine might threaten the area’s salmon. Of particular concern is copper and other heavy metals, found in mine waste, leaching into the Klehini River and the Chilkat River further downstream. Copper and heavy metals are toxic to salmon and bald eagles. Chilkat River and Klehini River chum salmon are the primary food source for one of the largest gatherings of bald eagles in the world. Each fall, bald eagles congregate in the Alaska Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve, located only three miles downriver from the area of current exploration. (© John L. Dengler/Dengler Images)

The spawning chum salmon were frantically rushing up the small creek where Wheat was sampling. I couldn’t help but think that the noise of their flapping tails in the shallow water had to be have been heard by the bears in the woods. The night before I met Wheat at the creek an Alaska State Trooper reported seeing seven bears in the area. Luckily, there were no chance encounters with bears but Wheat was prepared for one with an air horn and bear spray within quick reach on her backpack should they become necessary to use.

Rachel Wheat, a graduate student at the University of California Santa Cruz, searches for salmon carcasses on the banks of the man-made spawning channel of Herman Creek, near Haines, Alaska. Wheat is collecting DNA samples of bears from bear saliva left on salmon carcasses as part of research for her doctoral dissertation. She hopes to determine if partially-consumed salmon carcasses can serve as a viable source for bear DNA to genotype individuals. She also looking to determine a minimum population estimate for the number of bears using the Chilkoot Valley and the ratio of males to females, particularly in light of increase human presence. The bear DNA collection is part of her dissertation which looks at how the availability of salmon affects eagle movement, bear activity, and subsistence fishermen. EDITORS NOTE: Images of Wheat capturing bald eagles for the bald eagle portion of her study are available here: http://denglerimages.photoshelter.com/gallery/Bald-eagle-research-Chilkat-River-eagle-migration-study/G0000GTyPvah7eiQ/ During late fall, bald eagles congregate along the Chilkat River to feed on salmon. This gathering of bald eagles in the Alaska Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve is believed to be one of the largest gatherings of bald eagles in the world. (© John L. Dengler/Dengler Images)

It had been raining and Wheat was concerned about how the rain might affect the quality of today’s samples. Many of the salmon carcasses revealed that the brains of the fish, a tasty favorite of the bears, had been surgically removed and eaten.

Bears aren’t the only ones dining on the salmon remains. So are the eagles. That’s not surprising since the Alaska Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve includes the creek area where Wheat was sampling. During late fall, bald eagles congregate in the Chilkat Valley to feed on salmon. This gathering of bald eagles is believed to be among the largest gatherings of bald eagles in the world. It is also part of the reason why Wheat chose the Chilkat River eagles to see how the availability of salmon affects eagle movement.

Sampling the salmon for bear saliva is straight out of the tv show, CSI: Las Vegas. Rachel gloves up with latex gloves to avoid contamination, then uses a swab to wipe across areas of a carcass where an animal is likely to have left their drool. Teeth holes are are also poked into with a swab.

Rachel Wheat, a graduate student at the University of California Santa Cruz, takes a bear saliva DNA sample from a partially consumed salmon on the banks of the man-made spawning channel of Herman Creek, near Haines, Alaska. Wheat is collecting DNA samples of bears from bear saliva left on salmon carcasses as part of research for her doctoral dissertation. She hopes to determine if partially-consumed salmon carcasses can serve as a viable source for bear DNA to genotype individuals. She also looking to determine a minimum population estimate for the number of bears using the Chilkoot Valley and the ratio of males to females, particularly in light of increase human presence. The bear DNA collection is part of her dissertation which looks at how the availability of salmon affects eagle movement, bear activity, and subsistence fishermen. EDITORS NOTE: Images of Wheat capturing bald eagles for the bald eagle portion of her study are available here: http://denglerimages.photoshelter.com/gallery/Bald-eagle-research-Chilkat-River-eagle-migration-study/G0000GTyPvah7eiQ/ During late fall, bald eagles congregate along the Chilkat River to feed on salmon. This gathering of bald eagles in the Alaska Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve is believed to be one of the largest gatherings of bald eagles in the world. (© John L. Dengler/Dengler Images)

Rachel Wheat, a graduate student at the University of California Santa Cruz, takes a bear saliva DNA sample from a partially consumed salmon on the banks of the man-made spawning channel of Herman Creek, near Haines, Alaska. Wheat is collecting DNA samples of bears from bear saliva left on salmon carcasses as part of research for her doctoral dissertation. She hopes to determine if partially-consumed salmon carcasses can serve as a viable source for bear DNA to genotype individuals. She also looking to determine a minimum population estimate for the number of bears using the Chilkoot Valley and the ratio of males to females, particularly in light of increase human presence. The bear DNA collection is part of her dissertation which looks at how the availability of salmon affects eagle movement, bear activity, and subsistence fishermen. EDITORS NOTE: Images of Wheat capturing bald eagles for the bald eagle portion of her study are available here: http://denglerimages.photoshelter.com/gallery/Bald-eagle-research-Chilkat-River-eagle-migration-study/G0000GTyPvah7eiQ/ During late fall, bald eagles congregate along the Chilkat River to feed on salmon. This gathering of bald eagles in the Alaska Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve is believed to be one of the largest gatherings of bald eagles in the world. (© John L. Dengler/Dengler Images)

Rachel Wheat, a graduate student at the University of California Santa Cruz, takes a bear saliva DNA sample from a partially consumed salmon on the banks of the man-made spawning channel of Herman Creek, near Haines, Alaska. Wheat is collecting DNA samples of bears from bear saliva left on salmon carcasses as part of research for her doctoral dissertation. She hopes to determine if partially-consumed salmon carcasses can serve as a viable source for bear DNA to genotype individuals. She also looking to determine a minimum population estimate for the number of bears using the Chilkoot Valley and the ratio of males to females, particularly in light of increase human presence. The bear DNA collection is part of her dissertation which looks at how the availability of salmon affects eagle movement, bear activity, and subsistence fishermen. EDITORS NOTE: Images of Wheat capturing bald eagles for the bald eagle portion of her study are available here: http://denglerimages.photoshelter.com/gallery/Bald-eagle-research-Chilkat-River-eagle-migration-study/G0000GTyPvah7eiQ/ During late fall, bald eagles congregate along the Chilkat River to feed on salmon. This gathering of bald eagles in the Alaska Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve is believed to be one of the largest gatherings of bald eagles in the world. (© John L. Dengler/Dengler Images)

Rachel Wheat, a graduate student at the University of California Santa Cruz, places a vial containing a sample of bear saliva on the banks of the man-made spawning channel of Herman Creek, near Haines, Alaska. Wheat is collecting DNA samples of bears from bear saliva left on salmon carcasses as part of research for her doctoral dissertation. She hopes to determine if partially-consumed salmon carcasses can serve as a viable source for bear DNA to genotype individuals. She also looking to determine a minimum population estimate for the number of bears using the Chilkoot Valley and the ratio of males to females, particularly in light of increase human presence. The bear DNA collection is part of her dissertation which looks at how the availability of salmon affects eagle movement, bear activity, and subsistence fishermen. EDITORS NOTE: Images of Wheat capturing bald eagles for the bald eagle portion of her study are available here: http://denglerimages.photoshelter.com/gallery/Bald-eagle-research-Chilkat-River-eagle-migration-study/G0000GTyPvah7eiQ/ During late fall, bald eagles congregate along the Chilkat River to feed on salmon. This gathering of bald eagles in the Alaska Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve is believed to be one of the largest gatherings of bald eagles in the world. A partially consumed chum salmon lies on the banks of the spawning channel of Herman Creek, near Haines, Alaska. Rachel Wheat, a graduate student at the University of California Santa Cruz, is collecting DNA samples of bears from bear saliva left on salmon carcasses as part of research for her doctoral dissertation. She hopes to determine if partially-consumed salmon carcasses can serve as a viable source for bear DNA to genotype individuals. She also looking to determine a minimum population estimate for the number of bears using the Chilkoot Valley and the ratio of males to females, particularly in light of increase human presence. The bear DNA collection is part of her dissertation (© John L. Dengler/Dengler Images)

Rachel Wheat, a graduate student at the University of California Santa Cruz, enters the notes for a DNA sample she has taken onto her box of bear saliva samples she has collected from salmon on the banks of the man-made spawning channel of Herman Creek, near Haines, Alaska. Wheat is collecting DNA samples of bears from bear saliva left on salmon carcasses as part of research for her doctoral dissertation. She hopes to determine if partially-consumed salmon carcasses can serve as a viable source for bear DNA to genotype individuals. She also looking to determine a minimum population estimate for the number of bears using the Chilkoot Valley and the ratio of males to females, particularly in light of increase human presence. The bear DNA collection is part of her dissertation which looks at how the availability of salmon affects eagle movement, bear activity, and subsistence fishermen. EDITORS NOTE: Images of Wheat capturing bald eagles for the bald eagle portion of her study are available here: http://denglerimages.photoshelter.com/gallery/Bald-eagle-research-Chilkat-River-eagle-migration-study/G0000GTyPvah7eiQ/ During late fall, bald eagles congregate along the Chilkat River to feed on salmon. This gathering of bald eagles in the Alaska Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve is believed to be one of the largest gatherings of bald eagles in the world. (© John L. Dengler/Dengler Images)

Rachel Wheat, a graduate student at the University of California Santa Cruz, records information onto a vial containing a bear saliva swab sample she collected from a salmon on the banks of the man-made spawning channel of Herman Creek, near Haines, Alaska. Wheat is collecting DNA samples of bears from bear saliva left on salmon carcasses as part of research for her doctoral dissertation. She hopes to determine if partially-consumed salmon carcasses can serve as a viable source for bear DNA to genotype individuals. She also looking to determine a minimum population estimate for the number of bears using the Chilkoot Valley and the ratio of males to females, particularly in light of increase human presence. The bear DNA collection is part of her dissertation which looks at how the availability of salmon affects eagle movement, bear activity, and subsistence fishermen. EDITORS NOTE: Images of Wheat capturing bald eagles for the bald eagle portion of her study are available here: http://denglerimages.photoshelter.com/gallery/Bald-eagle-research-Chilkat-River-eagle-migration-study/G0000GTyPvah7eiQ/ During late fall, bald eagles congregate along the Chilkat River to feed on salmon. This gathering of bald eagles in the Alaska Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve is believed to be one of the largest gatherings of bald eagles in the world. (© John L. Dengler/Dengler Images)

Rachel Wheat, a graduate student at the University of California Santa Cruz, uses a GPS to record the location a salmon carcass from which she has taken a bear saliva DNA sample from on the banks of the man-made spawning channel of Herman Creek, near Haines, Alaska. Wheat is collecting DNA samples of bears from bear saliva left on salmon carcasses as part of research for her doctoral dissertation. She hopes to determine if partially-consumed salmon carcasses can serve as a viable source for bear DNA to genotype individuals. She also looking to determine a minimum population estimate for the number of bears using the Chilkoot Valley and the ratio of males to females, particularly in light of increase human presence. The bear DNA collection is part of her dissertation which looks at how the availability of salmon affects eagle movement, bear activity, and subsistence fishermen. EDITORS NOTE: Images of Wheat capturing bald eagles for the bald eagle portion of her study are available here: http://denglerimages.photoshelter.com/gallery/Bald-eagle-research-Chilkat-River-eagle-migration-study/G0000GTyPvah7eiQ/ During late fall, bald eagles congregate along the Chilkat River to feed on salmon. This gathering of bald eagles in the Alaska Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve is believed to be one of the largest gatherings of bald eagles in the world. (© John L. Dengler/Dengler Images)

Rachel Wheat, a graduate student at the University of California Santa Cruz, photographs a salmon carcass from which she has taken a bear saliva DNA sample from on the banks of the man-made spawning channel of Herman Creek, near Haines, Alaska. Wheat is collecting DNA samples of bears from bear saliva left on salmon carcasses as part of research for her doctoral dissertation. She hopes to determine if partially-consumed salmon carcasses can serve as a viable source for bear DNA to genotype individuals. She also looking to determine a minimum population estimate for the number of bears using the Chilkoot Valley and the ratio of males to females, particularly in light of increase human presence. The bear DNA collection is part of her dissertation which looks at how the availability of salmon affects eagle movement, bear activity, and subsistence fishermen. EDITORS NOTE: Images of Wheat capturing bald eagles for the bald eagle portion of her study are available here: http://denglerimages.photoshelter.com/gallery/Bald-eagle-research-Chilkat-River-eagle-migration-study/G0000GTyPvah7eiQ/ During late fall, bald eagles congregate along the Chilkat River to feed on salmon. This gathering of bald eagles in the Alaska Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve is believed to be one of the largest gatherings of bald eagles in the world. (© John L. Dengler/Dengler Images)

Wheat then snaps off the long wooden stick portion of the sampling stick and places the cotton swab portion in a small vial of sterile solution. She gives the sample a number and records the type of fish. She then takes a photo of the salmon carcass and records its location using a GPS. It’s all typical field work procedures for an ecologist like Wheat.

Photojournalist John L. Dengler poses with a chum salmon carcass along the Herman Creek man-made spawning channel near Haines, Alaska. Dengler was photographing ecologist Rachel Wheat working on her research project. Wheat was collecting DNA samples from the saliva of bears who had partially eaten the salmon as part of her Ph.D. dissertation. (© John L. Dengler/Dengler Images)

Photo by Rachel Wheat/EcologyAlaska.com

Many of the salmon were pretty disgusting. Some seemed alive with flies and maggots busily working on the remains. With one of the salmon I was asked to help flip the fish so Wheat could sample. It was hard to imagine that what was left was once a salmon.

The smell wasn’t too bad because there was a slight breeze, but you definitely knew you were around rotting fish. Unfortunately I made the mistake of setting my pack on what I thought was a clean spot on the ground. I didn’t make that mistake again as my pack picked up the eau de cologne of rotting salmon. The fact that my pack picked up the fish odor reminded me that salmon don’t just feed bears, eagles and people, but their decaying bodies also add nutrients to the forest floor. As testament to that, salmon DNA can often be found in the trees of Southeast Alaska. What an interesting role that salmon play in the circle of life.

What Wheat hopes to learn from the saliva samples

With the 460 saliva samples collected, Wheat will be collaborating on the DNA analysis with Dr. Taal Levi at Oregon State University. Wheat hopes to determine if partially-consumed salmon carcasses can serve as a viable source for bear DNA to genotype individual bears. She also is looking to determine a minimum population estimate for the number of bears using the Chilkoot Valley and the ratio of males to females, particularly in light of increase human presence.

Balancing economic gain with ecosystem processes

I asked Wheat about why she feels her research is important to understand the ecological connections between salmon, eagles, bears, and fishermen.

She thoughtfully responded, “Salmon are a critically important component of marine, freshwater, and terrestrial ecosystems; they are a keystone species and the foundation of local and regional economies, and have immense social, political, and ecological value. But there is still a lot we don’t know about the importance of salmon to their ecological communities.”

Wheat elaborated, “Currently, most salmon populations are managed to maximize commercial yield, but that isn’t necessarily the best thing for the long-term viability and stability of the population, or the non-human and non-commercial communities that salmon support. My research, as a whole, looks to address this shortcoming. Salmon support a multimillion dollar industry, but they are also important to subsistence fishermen and wildlife, and my research will hopefully lend support to the argument that salmon management should look toward balancing economic gain with other uses, including ecosystem processes.”

As I have found out this past year on my own personal quest to learn more about salmon, this keystone species truly does play an important link to all forms of life in Southeast Alaska. Wheat’s search for determining this balance seems to be worthy of her hard-work. Like so many things about life on this planet, balance can at times be hard to recognize, and even harder to achieve.

LINK

  • ECOLOGY ALASKA – Learn more about Rachel Wheat’s research in Haines, Alaska

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Call the “High One” Denali, not Mt. McKinley

February 6, 2015 by John L. Dengler

Sun rises on Mount McKinley and the Alaska Range as seen from Wonder Lake in Denali National Park and Preserve in Alaska. Mount McKinley also known as Denali is North America's tallest peak at 20,320 feet and towers over 18,000 feet above the surrounding lowlands. Other mountain peaks pictured include: Mount Brooks, Mount Silverthrone, Mount Tatum, and Mount Carpe. SPECIAL NOTE: This image is a panorama composite consisting of multiple overlapping images stitched together. (John L. Dengler)

UPDATE: On August 31, 2015, President Obama put the issue to rest and changed Mt. McKinley to Denali.

Yesterday’s news that Alaska Republican U.S. Sens. Lisa Murkowski and Dan Sullivan are making the annual introduction of a bill to officially rename 20,310-foot Mt. McKinley to it’s original historical Athabaskan name, Denali (the Great One or the High One), reminded me of how privileged and lucky I have been to have seen and photograph the mountain. If you ever are lucky enough to see Denali, I think you will understand why I side with Alaskans on this issue. Words and pictures can never describe the view. There literally isn’t a mountain visually taller on the planet. Even though Mt. Everest is higher, Denali’s 18,000-foot change in elevation from it’s base in the lowlands to it’s peak is more than Mt. Everest (only a 12,000-foot change).

Photo Gallery

Images from Denali National Park and Preserve

I’ll never forget the first time I saw Denali, North America’s tallest peak, on our first visit to Wonder Lake, located deep in Denali National Park and Preserve. After a 6-hour, 84-mile bus ride in a modified school bus, we arrived at Wonder Lake in light rain. Denali is only 25 miles away from Wonder Lake but it was totally obscured by clouds. Not seeing the mountain for weeks, or even a month at a time, isn’t unusual. A visitor has a 33-percent chance of seeing the mountain with clear skies. The odds of a partial view aren’t much better at 40-percent. The park rangers at the Eielson Visitor Center, the closest park visitor center to the peak in the park, keep a calendar in which they hand draw what the peak looked like on a particular day. Most of the drawings are gray clouds.

Mt. McKinley, also known as Denali (Athabaskan for "The High One") basks in morning light at sunrise in Denali National Park and Preserve in Alaska. The snow and glacier covered mountain, part of the Alaska Range soars to a height of 20,320 feet. Mt. McKinley is the tallest mountain on the North American continent. Although Mt. Everest is higher, the vertical rise of Mt. McKinley is greater. This view is a small detail from the north slopes of the mountain seen from Wonder Lake. (John L. Dengler)

Denali basks in morning light at sunrise in Denali National Park and Preserve. This view is a small detail from the north slopes of the mountain seen from Wonder Lake.

So you can imagine we were dang excited when later that evening we saw a sliver of the mountain in the still heavily overcast skies. Impressed, I took a few photos and went to bed. Then in the early dawn at roughly 4 a.m., Carol shook me telling me I had to immediately get up and look outside the tent. My jaw dropped. The sliver of the mountain that we had seen the night before, was only the foothills of the peak. Those mountains looked like the familiar mountains of the Front Range in Colorado. Towering above them was the icy granite massif, Denali. Even at a distance of 26 miles away we had to tilt our heads upward to take in the mountain. Next to seeing the Aurora borealis, it is probably the most spectacular thing I have seen.

I hope that anyone who makes the effort to Denali National Park gets a chance to see the mountain. Here are some tips that might increase your chances. First, the Wonder Lake campground is the closest you can get to the mountain on land without serious backpacking across the dangerous swift moving McKinley River. It is a great backcountry campground located in a wet boggy area and is one of the most mosquito infested places I have been. Only camping in the Everglades in the summer was worse. You won’t think anything of the cold, rainy, and fierce mosquitos if you get to see the mountain. If you don’t see the mountain, you might curse me for ever putting the thought of seeing the mountain in your head. To increase your chances, you’ll want to stay multiple days at Wonder Lake. I usually try to stay 4 – 6 days, using Wonder Lake as a base to day hike from. The park’s shuttle bus makes it easy to day hike in other areas of the park once you have explored the Wonder Lake area on foot. The final tip I would give is to get up early. It has been my experience that Denali is often visible in the very early morning hours. Don’t hit the snooze alarm though. More often than not it might only stay completely clear for 20 minutes. The mountain creates its own weather and it changes quickly.

Denali teased me in my failed attempt take this time-lapse movie of the clouds swirling around the peak overnight. I hoped that it would eventually clear in this view from Wonder Lake. No such luck.

There is no question that Denali has been over-photographed by professional and amateur photographers. That still doesn’t deter me from trying. Just the exercise of putting in extra effort to simply see the mountain makes it worthwhile. Frankly, in many ways, trying to photograph the mountain is futile. Seeing Denali is one of those things you have to see in person. A photograph will never capture the immensity and majesty that you experience in person.

So as the Alaska delegation tries again after four and a half decades of previous attempts to get the mountain renamed, I’m hoping that this time they succeed and defeat the Ohio delegation’s (President William McKinley was from Ohio) attempts to block the name change to Denali, the name it was for thousands of years before a gold prospector called the mountain McKinley.

Sun rises on Mount McKinley and the Alaska Range as seen from Wonder Lake in Denali National Park and Preserve in Alaska. Also pictured is the setting moon, above Mount McKinley. Mount McKinley also known as Denali is North America's tallest peak at 20,320 feet and towers over 18,000 feet above the surrounding lowlands. Other mountain peaks pictured include: Mount Brooks, Mount Silverthrone, Mount Tatum, Mount Carpe and Mount Foraker. SPECIAL NOTE: This image is a panorama composite consisting of multiple overlapping images stitched together. (John L. Dengler)

ABOVE: Sun rises on Denali and the Alaska Range as seen from Wonder Lake in Denali National Park and Preserve. Also pictured is the setting moon, above Denali. Other mountain peaks pictured include: Mount Brooks, Mount Silverthrone, Mount Tatum, Mount Carpe and Mount Foraker. EDITORS NOTE: This image is a panorama composite consisting of multiple overlapping images stitched together.

TOP OF PAGE: Sun rises on Denali and the Alaska Range as seen from Wonder Lake in Denali National Park and Preserve. EDITORS NOTE: This image is a panorama composite consisting of multiple overlapping images stitched together.

LINKS

  • DENALI NATIONAL PARK – Park Guides The park’s newspaper is an excellent source of information about the park including how to plan your visit.
  • NATIONAL PARK SERVICE, Official Denali National Park and Preserve website

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Proposed Baby Brown Timber Sale in Haines State Forest would be largest sale since 1990’s

February 4, 2015 by John L. Dengler

A significant portion of the Haines State Forest pictured in this photo is under consideration for harvest. Known as the Baby Brown Timber Sale, the proposal by the Alaska Division of Forestry calls for 1,000 acres (20 million board feet) of Sitka spruce and western hemlock to be harvested from state land. This photo shows the Baby Brown Timber Sale area between Glacier Creek (bottom), near Haines Alaska, and Jarvis Creek (top), near the border with Canada. The Klehini River is at the right. Also visible is the Haines Highway (AK-7). The Baby Brown Timber Sale also includes forest land west of Porcupine Creek (not shown). The area pictured also shows land that Constantine Metal Resources Ltd. has leased mineral rights. Constantine is currently exploring the area above Glacier Creek. The minerals that Constantine’s drilling explorations have found are primarily copper and zinc, with significant amounts of gold and silver. If approved the Baby Brown Timber Sale would be the largest sale in the Chilkat Valley since the 1990’s. The Division of Forestry estimates that the sale could generate 20 jobs directly associated with the harvest, $300,000 in royalties to the state. The economic impact of the sale to the statewide economy is estimated to $2,000,000. Conservation groups are concerned by the size of the sale and the impact a sale of this size will have on the watershed, fish, and wildlife. There are also concerns about the impact the harvest will have on the viewshed visible from the Haines Highway (AK-7) which has been designated as a National Scenic Byway. (© John L. Dengler/Dengler Images)

A portion of the Haines State Forest is under consideration for logging. Known as the Baby Brown Timber Sale, the proposal by the Alaska Division of Forestry calls for 855 acres (20 million board feet) of Sitka spruce and western hemlock to be harvested from state land. The Baby Brown Timber Sale area is near Haines Alaska between Porcupine Creek, Jarvis Creek and the Klehini River.

Photo Gallery

Constantine Metal’s Palmer Deposit project

The Baby Brown Timber Sale area also covers land that Constantine Metal Resources Ltd. has leased mineral rights. Constantine Metals is also currently exploring the Palmer Deposit area above Glacier Creek. The minerals that Constantine’s drilling explorations have found are primarily copper and zinc, with significant amounts of gold and silver.

If Approved, the Baby Brown Timber Sale would be the largest sale in the Chilkat Valley since the 1990’s. The Division of Forestry estimates that the sale could generate 20 jobs directly associated with the harvest, $300,000 in royalties to the state. The economic impact of the sale to the statewide economy is estimated to $2,000,000.

Conservation groups are concerned by the size of the sale and the impact a sale of this size will have on the watershed, fish, and wildlife. There are also concerns about the impact the harvest will have on the viewshed visible from the Haines Highway (AK-7) which has been designated as a National Scenic Byway.

Interestingly, several of the photos I took last fall of the Palmer Deposit mine exploration by Constantine Metals can be used to illustrate the proposed Baby Brown Timber Sale. It might be an indicator of the potential stress that could be placed on the Chilkat Valley ecosystems as multiple industries vie for the same land. Mining, logging, salmon, bald eagles, and tourism — can they all co-exist?

MARCH 2015 UPDATE: The Alaska State Division of Forestry released their final best interest finding for the Baby Brown sale. This moves the sale forward into the planning phase. However, proposed state budget cuts to the state forestry division has the potential to slow the sale process.

APRIL 2015 UPDATE: Conservation groups including Lynn Canal Conservation, Greenpeace and Cascade Wildlands appeal the timber sale decision by the Alaska State Division of Forestry.

OCTOBER 2015 UPDATE: The Alaska State Division of Forestry denied the appeal by conservation groups to halt the sale.

A portion of the Haines State Forest pictured in this photo (hill area in the center) is under consideration for harvest. Known as the Baby Brown Timber Sale, the proposal by the Alaska Division of Forestry calls for 1,000 acres (20 million board feet) of Sitka spruce and western hemlock to be harvested from state land. This photo shows the Baby Brown Timber Sale area between Porcupine Creek (left), near Haines Alaska, and Glacier Creek (right). The Klehini River is in the foreground. The photo was taken from the Haines Highway (AK-7). The Baby Brown Timber Sale also includes forest land west of Glacier Creek to Jarvis Creek. The area pictured also shows land that Constantine Metal Resources Ltd. has leased mineral rights. Constantine is currently exploring the area above Glacier Creek (right mountain slope). The minerals that Constantine’s drilling explorations have found are primarily copper and zinc, with significant amounts of gold and silver. If approved the Baby Brown Timber Sale would be the largest sale in the Chilkat Valley since the 1990’s. The Division of Forestry estimates that the sale could generate 20 jobs directly associated with the harvest, $300,000 in royalties to the state. The economic impact of the sale to the statewide economy is estimated to $2,000,000. Conservation groups are concerned by the size of the sale and the impact a sale of this size will have on the watershed, fish, and wildlife. There are also concerns about the impact the harvest will have on the viewshed visible from the Haines Highway (AK-7) which has been designated as a National Scenic Byway. EDITORS NOTE: This panorama image was produced by electronically stitching together multiple single images. (John L. Dengler)

ABOVE: A portion of the Haines State Forest pictured in this photo (hill area in the center) is under consideration for harvest. This photo shows the Baby Brown Timber Sale area near Haines Alaska, between Porcupine Creek (left) and Glacier Creek (right). The Klehini River is in the foreground. The photo was taken from the Haines Highway (AK-7). The Baby Brown Timber Sale also includes forest land west of Glacier Creek to Jarvis Creek (not shown). The area pictured also shows land that Constantine Metal Resources Ltd. has leased mineral rights. Constantine is currently exploring the area above Glacier Creek (right mountain slope). EDITORS NOTE: This panorama image was produced by electronically stitching together multiple single images..

TOP OF PAGE: A significant portion of the Haines State Forest pictured in this photo is under consideration for harvest. This photo shows the Baby Brown Timber Sale area near Haines Alaska, between Glacier Creek (bottom) and Jarvis Creek (top) near the border with Canada. The Klehini River is at the right. Also visible is the Haines Highway (AK-7). The Baby Brown Timber Sale also includes forest land west of Porcupine Creek (not shown). The area pictured also shows land that Constantine Metal Resources Ltd. has leased mineral rights. Constantine is also currently exploring the area above Glacier Creek.

LINK
ALASKA DIVISION OF FORESTRY – Preliminary Best Interest Finding and Decision for Baby Brown Timber Sale (includes map of the proposed sale parcels)


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Bald eagle’s view of Constantine Metals Palmer Deposit

December 12, 2014 by John L. Dengler

Constantine Metal Resources Ltd. of Vancouver, British Columbia along with investment partner Dowa Metals & Mining Co., Ltd. of Japan is exploring a potential site for a mine on the steep mountain slopes pictured above Glacier Creek (foreground). This area above Glacier Greek near Mount Henry Clay, known as the Palmer Deposit, is located near mile 40 of the Haines Highway. Jarvis Glacier can be seen in the upper right. The minerals that Constantine’s drilling explorations have found are primarily copper and zinc, with significant amounts of gold and silver. Exploratory drilling to refine the location and mineral amounts are the current focus of the company. If approved and developed, the mine, near Haines, Alaska would be an underground mine. Besides the actual ore deposits, having the nearby highway access for transporting ore to the deepwater port at Haines is also attractive to Constantine. The Haines Highway can be seen in photo on the right. Support for a large scale mine such as the Constantine project is divided among residents of Haines, a small community in Southeast Alaska 75 miles northwest of Juneau. The community’s needed economic boost from jobs, development and other mine support that a large-scale mine brings is tempting to some. To others, anything that might put the salmon spawning and rearing habitat and watershed resources at risk is simply unimaginable and unacceptable. Of particular concern is copper and other heavy metals in mine waste leaching into the Klehini River (shown) and the Chilkat River 14 miles downstream. Copper and heavy metals are toxic to salmon and bald eagles. The Chilkat River chum salmon are the primary food source for one of the largest gatherings of bald eagles in the world. Each fall, bald eagles congregate in the Alaska Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve, located only three miles downriver from the area of current exploration. (© John L. Dengler/Dengler Images)

Whenever I take aerial photographs of the Chilkat Valley near Haines, Alaska, I am reminded of how intertwined people and wildlife are in this valley. I also find that places that seem big or far away when viewed from the ground look small, insignificant and close-by from the air. It gives meaning to the term, “getting the big picture” — both literally and figuratively. I find it a great way to develop a broader understanding of a story topic, and to put the issues into perspective.

Photo Gallery

Constantine Metal’s Palmer Deposit project

It was for these reasons I wanted to see from the air, the area that is being explored by Constantine Metal Resources Ltd. of Vancouver, British Columbia and investment partner Dowa Metals & Mining Co., Ltd. of Japan.

The area that Constantine Metal Resources is exploring for an underground mine is known as the Palmer Deposit. The minerals that Constantine’s drilling explorations have found are primarily copper and zinc, with significant amounts of gold and silver. Exploratory drilling to refine the location and mineral amounts are the current focus of the company.

The mountain slope where the mine might be located is near Mile 40 of the Haines Highway.  It is directly above Glacier Creek which drains into the nearby Klehini River, a tributary of the Chilkat River.

Constantine Metal Resources Ltd. of Vancouver, British Columbia along with investment partner Dowa Metals & Mining Co., Ltd. of Japan is exploring a potential site for a mine on the mountain slopes (left) above Glacier Creek (shown) and the Klehini River (background). This area above Glacier Greek, known as the Palmer Deposit, is located near mile 40 of the Haines Highway. The bottom of the photo is the tongue of the Saksaia Glacier. The minerals that Constantine’s drilling explorations have found are primarily copper and zinc, with significant amounts of gold and silver. Exploratory drilling to refine the location and mineral amounts are the current focus of the company. If approved and developed, the mine, near Haines, Alaska would be an underground mine. Besides the actual ore deposits, having the nearby highway access for transporting ore to the deepwater port at Haines is also attractive to Constantine. Support for a large scale mine such as the Constantine project is divided among residents of Haines, a small community in Southeast Alaska 75 miles northwest of Juneau. The community’s needed economic boost from jobs, development and other mine support that a large-scale mine brings is tempting to some. To others, anything that might put the salmon spawning and rearing habitat and watershed resources at risk is simply unimaginable and unacceptable. Of particular concern is copper and other heavy metals in mine waste leaching into the Klehini River (shown) and the Chilkat River 14 miles downstream. Copper and heavy metals are toxic to salmon and bald eagles. The Chilkat River chum salmon are the primary food source for one of the largest gatherings of bald eagles in the world. Each fall, bald eagles congregate in the Alaska Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve, located only three miles downriver from the area of current exploration. At times more than 3,000 eagles have been recorded at the primary gathering area for the fall chum salmon run. (© John L. Dengler/Dengler Images)

It is the interconnection of Glacier Creek, the Klehini River and Chilkat River that is the focus of my interest and the reason for my aerial photography flight. I wanted to get the lay of the land, in particular, how Glacier Creek is situated directly below the area of geologic exploration. I was also interested in seeing the distance from this area of Glacier Creek before it emptied into the Klehini River, and shortly thereafter, the Chilkat River.

Constantine Metal Resources Ltd. of Vancouver, British Columbia along with investment partner Dowa Metals & Mining Co., Ltd. of Japan is exploring a potential site for a mine (located on the far left edge of image and beyond) just above Glacier Creek (foreground) and the Klehini River (right side of image). The border with British Columbia is at the upper right. This area above Glacier Greek, known as the Palmer Deposit is located near mile 40 of the Haines Highway. The minerals that Constantine’s drilling explorations have found are primarily copper and zinc, with significant amounts of gold and silver. Exploratory drilling to refine the location and mineral amounts are the current focus of the company. If approved and developed, the mine, near Haines, Alaska would be an underground mine. Besides the actual ore deposits, having the nearby highway access for transporting ore to the deepwater port at Haines is also attractive to Constantine. The Haines Highway can be seen in photo on the right. Support for a large scale mine such as the Constantine project is divided among residents of Haines, a small community in Southeast Alaska 75 miles northwest of Juneau. The community’s needed economic boost from jobs, development and other mine support that a large-scale mine brings is tempting to some. To others, anything that might put the salmon spawning and rearing habitat and watershed resources at risk is simply unimaginable and unacceptable. Of particular concern is copper and other heavy metals in mine waste leaching into the Klehini River (shown) and the Chilkat River 14 miles downstream. Copper and heavy metals are toxic to salmon and bald eagles. The Chilkat River chum salmon are the primary food source for one of the largest gatherings of bald eagles in the world. Each fall, bald eagles congregate in the Alaska Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve, located only three miles downriver from the area of current exploration. (© John L. Dengler/Dengler Images)

It was obvious from the air why the potential mining site was of interest to Constantine Metal Resources and their partners. Close access to a paved highway (as seen in the above photo, highway is on the right) would allow for easy delivery of ore concentrate by truck to the nearby year-round deepwater port of Haines. According to Constantine Metal Resources’ website, the ore concentrate would then be shipped from Haines to Asian smelters. The steep slope of the terrain makes for easier extraction due to direct access to the ore-rich geologic zones of the mountain slope.

As I have previously written (“Exploration continues at Constantine Metal Resources’ Palmer Project”), the Palmer Deposit project will become an even bigger topic of discussion as Constantine Metal Resources continues to post encouraging results from their exploratory efforts. Mine development is a very slow process with many boxes in need of being checked off: exploratory research, planning, environmental studies, public comment and permit acquisition. All this takes many years, sometimes decades. But as Constantine Metal Resources broadens their exploration, the pace of the project will pick up; as will the interest and concerns of locals.

A mine has the potential to bring needed jobs to the Haines economy. The community’s economic boost from jobs, development and other mine support is tempting to some.

On the other end of the spectrum, anything that has the potential to impact a world-class salmon fishery will be of intense local resident concern. Both the Klehini River and Chilkat River are key salmon spawning rivers for Southeast Alaska. According to local public radio station KHNS, Haines has 180 skippers and crew who commercial fish. The Haines fisherman caught $11.5 million worth of fish, resulting in $326,000 in fish tax for the Haines borough. These numbers do not include the many local residents who depend on salmon for subsistence. Simply put, salmon are critical to the life blood of the community on many levels.

Male chum salmon make their way up the special spawning channel of Herman Creek to spawn with female chum salmon during the fall chum salmon run. The nonprofit Northern Southeast Regional Aquaculture Association, Inc. (NSRAA) built the channel to collect wild broodstock by harvesting spawning female and male salmon for their eggs and milt.  These chum salmon are returning to freshwater Herman Creek after three to five years in the saltwater ocean. Spawning only once, chum salmon die approximately two weeks after they spawn. Both sexes of adult chum salmon change colors and appearance upon returning to freshwater. Unlike male sockeye salmon which turn bright red for spawning, male chum salmon change color to an olive green with purple and green vertical stripes. These vertical stripes are not as noticeable in females, who also have a dark horizontal band. Both male and female chum salmon develop hooked snout (type) and large canine teeth. These features in female salmon are less pronounced.  Herman Creek is a tributary of the Klehini River and is only 10 miles downstream of the area currently being explored as a potential site of a copper and zinc mine. The exploration is being conducted by Constantine Metal Resources Ltd. of Vancouver, British Columbia along with investment partner Dowa Metals & Mining Co., Ltd. of Japan. Some local residents and environmental groups are concerned that a mine might threaten the area’s salmon. Of particular concern is copper and other heavy metals, found in mine waste, leaching into the Klehini River and the Chilkat River further downstream. Copper and heavy metals are toxic to salmon and bald eagles. Chilkat River and Klehini River chum salmon are the primary food source for one of the largest gatherings of bald eagles in the world. Each fall, bald eagles congregate in the Alaska Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve, located only three miles downriver from the area of current exploration. (© John L. Dengler/Dengler Images)

Anything that endangers the salmon spawning and rearing habitat, and watershed resources is simply unimaginable and unacceptable to many. Of particular concern is copper and other heavy metals in mine waste leaching into the Klehini and Chilkat River. Copper and heavy metals are toxic to salmon and bald eagles.

The Chilkat River chum salmon are the primary food source for one of the largest gatherings of bald eagles in the world. Each fall, bald eagles congregate in the Alaska Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve, located only three miles downriver from the area of current exploration. At times more than 3,000 eagles have been recorded at the preserve during the fall chum salmon run.

It was these bald eagles that originally brought me to the Chilkat Valley, but like the many interconnected aspects of this valley, it became quickly apparent to me that without salmon, there would be no large groups of bald eagles. Without salmon, I doubt that the original Tlingit people would have had the presence they had in the valley.

In journalism, you always hear the term “follow the money.” In the case of the Chilkat Valley, I believe it might be more appropriate to say, “follow the salmon.”

That’s just what I did with my aerial flight. The eagle-eye view gave me a literal overview of the valley’s interconnections giving me a better perspective and understanding of the mine exploration area and its relation to the Chilkat Valley’s watershed.

LINKS

  • CONSTANTINE METAL RESOURCES LTD. – Palmer Project
  • DOWA METALS & MINING CO. – Metals and mining overview
  • HIGH COUNTRY NEWS – Could an Alaska mining project jeopardize Earth’s largest bald eagle gathering?
  • TWIN LIONS PRODUCTIONS – Save Our Salmon and Culture (video)

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